Nothing beats a Hawaii trip on the Bid Island for 9 days! The Big Island is the largest, most diverse and adventurous island in Hawaii. It exceeded my expectations and I will tell anyone they should come here at least once! I did a couples trip here with my cousin and her boyfriend, and we had the time of our lives adventuring, hiking, snorkeling, eating… you name it! Here are some of my recommendations and itinerary below!
Getting to the Big Island
Most people who travel here, fly through the Kona Airport. There’s also a small airport in Hilo, but there are much less flights coming through here and options are limited. I flew through Alaska Airlines (MVP MEMBER BABY!) from Seattle to Kona. We landed around 9pm and drove straight to Hilo to our Airbnb. it was a long drive, so I don’t always recommend it but for our itinerary it was the best option for us.
A rental car is a must! Especially if you want to venture around the island, so be sure to book in advance. We found that 4-wheel drive vehicle was necessary for us, since many of the hikes we wanted to go on had very rough and rocky terrain to go through.
Hilo
Hilo is the luscious green side of Hawaii where the climate tends to be a much rainier. Some people wonder why stay on this side? This part of the island is much more remote, and less touristy. The plus sides: it’s closer to Volcanoes National Park, lots of amazing hikes and beaches. The downside is yes, it’s rains a lot more here, but its also a lot greener than the rest of the island. There are no resorts on this side like the Kona side, and options for stays are extremely limited. However, they are very affordable with lots of great options on Airbnb. Our stay was only about 20 minutes from Volcanoes National Park, which worked out perfectly if you want to see the lava flows at night. Otherwise a drive from the Kona side to the Volcanoes National Park would be a 2 hour drive. Most people who go to the Big Island stay on the Kona side the entire time, however if you want to be able to see the entire island, splitting time between each side makes it much easier.
Our Airbnb in Hilo was not the most luxurious of Airbnb’s but it was in prime location to what we wanted to do. We also had booked our stay a week prior to coming, so there were not a whole lot of options left, but we were very satisfied with our stay. Honestly, the pictures don’t do its justice. We had everything we needed at this airbnb, and even the host was amazing and provided us with fresh milk every morning, and THE BEST banana bread made from some of own ingredients on her farm. I still think about that banana bread to this day! The grocery store was about a 20 min drive, and we did stock up on groceries to make our breakfasts, sandwiches for lunches on the go, and some of our dinners if we didn’t feel like eating out. Buying local fish from the market was a plus!
Day 1: Hilo
Our first day in Hilo ended up being the rainiest day, and we were nervous that our entire trip would be like this but thankfully it wasn’t. Rain can’t stop us from venturing around1 We started the day exploring downtown Hilo to get some groceries, and stop by for lunch. I highly recommended downloading the Gypsy Guide App and downloading the Big Island tour. We used this throughout the entire island to learn about the history and all of the recommended stops. Here are the stops we made after exploring downtown Hilo (approx. 4 hours to explore) :
Banyan Drive - Check out the beautiful banyan trees here and walk around the Japanese Garden. The canopy of banyan trees outlines the Waiakea Peninsula, and it started in 1933. Most of the trees have a plaque on them labeling who planted them and when, from famous names like Amelia Earhart and Richard Nixon.
Rainbow Falls - A beautiful 80 ft. tall waterfall close to Hilo. There are no fees, and you can park your car at the parking lot and walk right over to check out the falls. The falls were gigantic since we were here on such a rainy day.
Boiling Pots - Also known as Pe‘epe‘e Falls, this section of the Wailuku River provides a viewing platform & trail worth seeing
Kaumana Caves - This tropical park can descend into a massive 1881 lava-tube cave formed by Mauna Loa; this was one of the coolest caves to explore. It goes in pretty deep and if you want to explore the caves, be sure to bring waterproof gear and a headlamp
Onemea Bay Trail - The Onomea Trail follows the alignment of the Old Government Road into Hawai'i Tropical Botanical Garden, with a short detour along Alakahi Stream. We didn’t walk through the Botanical Garden however, since it required a fee, but I highly recommend taking a hike down the trail to the beach.
Akaka Falls - This park is about 11 miles north of Hilo, west of Honomū off the Hawaii Belt Road at the end of Hawaii Route 220. It includes its namesake ʻAkaka Falls, a 442-foot tall waterfall, the biggest fall here and most ferocious due to the heavy rainfall we had. Its also famously pictured everywhere with a rainbow, which can only be captured in the morning sunlight.
Laupahoehoe Harbor - Our last stop of the day at this gorgeous black sand beach, we stopped by and ventured around the beach area climbing rocks and watching the waves
After our scenic drive, we stopped in Hilo for lunch and walked around the Farmers Market. we got Poke at the fish shack located by the market, and stopped by Love by the Sun, a delicious smoothie bowl spot. I highly recommend ordering the “Live Green” smoothie bowl and add macadamia nuts. We loved it so much, we came back 2 more times to get it!
Kaumana Caves
Onemea Bay Trail
Akaka Falls
Day 2: Volcanoes National Park
We had designated this entire day to see as much as we could at Volcanoes National Park, and set out early morning. There are not many food options within the park, so we packed lots of snacks and sandwiches for lunch. What is so great about the park is that its open 24 hours, perfect for catching the lava flows. Be sure to check the NPS website before going to see update road closures, and best hikes/viewpoints to see the lava flows.
Kīlauea Iki Crater Trail - This was one of the coolest hikes we did on the Big Island. Kīlauea Iki is a pit crater that is next to the main summit caldera of Kīlauea, and its known for its eruption in 1959 that started on November 14th and ended on December 20th, producing lava fountaining up to 1900 feet and a lava lake in the crater. According to the Gypsy Guide, he stated that this was an advanced hike, but I didn’t feel like it was too difficult. The hikes is about 3 miles round trip and takes 2-3.5 hours. You get to experience walking right in the crater and see all of the lava flow creations and volcanic rocks. The hike itself started out hot and sunny, and then we experienced some warm rainfall and fog, so be prepared for any weather changes.
Thurston Lava Tubes Trail - The Thurston lava tube is an easily accessible and very interesting lava tube close to the Kīlauea Iki parking lot. A 20 minute (1/3 mile) walk through a tree fern forest and a illuminated cave-like lava tube takes you from the main road through the Thurston Lava Tube and back to the parking lot. Bring headlamps if you want to explore these caves at night.
Kealakomo Overlook - A beautiful overlook above vast lava plain with views of the Pacific Ocean
Pu’uloa Petroglyphs - Puʻuloa, translated as the "long hill" or "Hill-of-long-life" from Hawaiian, is a place considered sacred to the people of Hawai`i, Park and take a walk along the trail to see the hardened lava and petroglyphs.
Holei Sea Arch - last stop of the Volcanoes National Park, an arch of lava rock extending from steep cliffs into the Pacific Ocean
After the sea cliffs stop, we made our way back to our place to rest for a bit before our dinner at Seaside Restaurant in Hilo. The miso cod dish was to die for here!
Day 3
Papakōlea Beach - hike to the green sand beach, one of 4 green sand beaches in the world located near South Point. The beach itself is carved in a 49,000 year-old cinder cone belonging to the Mauna Loa volcano that contains the green crystals (olivines) that give the beach its name. Getting here is quite a trek; first you have to drive to the southern most tip of the US between mile markers 69 and 70 on Hwy 11, then you need to either hike 2.5 miles (one-way) from the parking lot to the beach, OR there are a bunch of local drivers there waiting at the parking lot and you have to pay a fee of $20 per person and they drive you down to the beach. I recommend paying them to take you because the road to the beach is pretty treacherous with lots of rocks. Driving here is apparently illegal and the lands between the parking lot and the beach are fragile. Driving a car over the 4WD road to the beach damages the road and scars the landscape of the land. Most car rental companies on the Big Island prohibit you from taking your rental car on the road to green sand beach.
Beware however, the car ride used to take you down is a little treacherous, they have these trucks and people pile in the back standing and holding onto the railing jerking back an forth. Its very scenic, but be careful because its not a comfortable ride getting tossed around. You don’t pay until the end of the trip, and you just pay your tour driver cash. Make sure to make eye contact to the guys and let them know you paid them. We had a very strange experience with you guy not remembering that our group paid and he started chasing after us in the parking lot swearing at us saying we didn’t pay. My husband and I started arguing back, and he figured out it was someone else and not us. That was the only poor experience we encountered. The remoteness of the beach is one that you will likely not want to miss. If you go early enough, you can have the entire beach for yourself.
Punalu’u - Black sand beach great for a day lounging around and snorkeling to see turtles. A bit more of a crowded beach, with much colder water, but worth it to see all the sea life here.
Day 4
Richardson Beach - Another great snorkel spot on the Hilo side of the island, we stopped here for a day on the beach and swimming with more turtles
Devastation Trail at Volcanoes National Park - We came here for sunset to see the lava flows - This was a must do here! Check the NPS website before going and where the best place to see the lava flows. There is also a live came you can check on for the lava flow action. Go early and prepare to hike, because the main trailhead parking can fill up quickly. We had to park a little further down and hike but its a very easy hike to see the lava.
Day 5 -
Carlsmith Beach Park - Another snorkeling spot, probably rated the 3rd best of what we could find on the Hilo side. The water is much colder here with rougher waters when we went. But the views were phenomenal, with lots of neat spots to layout and hang for the day.
Mauna Kea Observatory and Stargaze - A MUST DO when on the Big Island. This was one of my most favorite things we did. If you measure Mauna Kea from base (if you count the underwater portion) to Summit, it is the tallest mountain on Earth. Its known for its amazing sunsets and stargazing. I highly recommend doing your research before going. Plan to drive up the the visitor center, and spend a half hour up there to acclimate to the high altitude (this is required). We almost missed the sunset because we cut it too close! Also having AWD is also necessary to come up here. The main viewpoint is the best view you will find, and catching the sunset was the highlight of my trip. Afterwards, we drove down to the next viewpoint to watch the stars. We were able to park next to a group of tourists on the stargazing tour, and got to eavesdrop on a free history of all the stars.
Day 6 - Waikoloa
It was our last morning in Hilo, we spent the morning making breakfast at the house and enjoying our last few hours before heading out to our second stay of the trip in Kona. We decided to take the scenic route and hit some spots that we hadn’t see yet, but first we stopped in Downtown Hilo for mochi and of course another smoothie bowl.
Two Ladies Kitchen - located in downtown Hilo and is famous for its mochi. So famous that people usually order ahead of time to pickup, otherwise there is a long wait out the door to place an order. We picked a variety pack they had, and ate some on our little road trip.
Waipio Valley - Waipiʻo" means "curved water" in Hawaiian, we stopped here for a quick scenic viewpoint of the valley.
Airbnb - The second half of our trip was at a very nice Airbnb at Waikoloa Village. A beautiful two bedroom condo located right on the golf course with everything you need. Access to the pool, close to the beach, and centrally located right by the two shopping centers, Queens Marketplace and Kings Marketplace, close to lots of dining and shopping. We had dinner that night at Kaleanu Rum Shack and got to do a rum tasting along with our dinner. Also, check out the Islands Gourmet Market for some groceries or quick eats. We stopped by for breakfast or snacks and got some spam masubi, breakfast burritos and sashimi.
Day 7
We spent the entire morning biking around town and had a blast! We rented bikes from Bike Works Beach & Sport and rode through Mauna Launa. Its a great way to get a workout in and see other parts of the island.
Manta Ray Swim - You can’t go to the Big Island and not swim with the Manta Rays. This is the only place in the world where you get to experience a night swim with the mantas. We booked our tour through Big Island Divers. They are the only company that has both snorkelers and divers, since half of us did the snorkel and the other half was scuba certified so they got to do the diving.
Day 8
Island Cafe - Delicious Acai bowls for breakfast
Makalawena Beach - Another Gypsy Guide recommendation, to a very private beach where it seems like only locals know about. It’s probably the 2 mile hike to get there that keeps the crowds away and is extremely secluded and well worth it! The hike is very easy, just lots of volcanic rocks to step on, but once you reach the beach you’ll instantly be in awe by the white sand. We basically had the beach to ourselves and spent half of the day here swimming, snorkeling and sunbathing.
Umeke Fish market - THE best fish market! Lots of selections of local fishes and really delicious dishes for lunch or dinner. There is usually a long wait since its a pretty popular spot
Kona Brewing - local brewery, we did a couple flights to try out the beers here
Day 9
Our last day in Hawaii, and not ready to leave paradise. But it was a bittersweet trip and we did so much every single day, and loved every moment of it. Our itineraries were packed everyday and we got to do everything we wanted. The morning was spent…. you name it….. snorkeling again. But this was by far the most epic spot to go snorkeling.
Kealakekua bay at Captain Cook - Kayak to see dolphins at Captain Cook. I recommend going early to see dolphins. We had heard from many people that you’ll likely see spinner dolphins around 7am and they will sometimes jump over your kayaks. Unfortunately we didn't encounter any dolphins but its still the best snorkeling spot on the island. We were glad we went early to snorkel and see all the amazing corals and fishes. The water is very calm here, with more fishes than I’ve ever seen snorkeling. We would hop off our kayaks and take a nice dip in the water. Once we were there for a few hours, we started to see all the tour boats come in filled with snorkelers and were glad we went early to not have to deal with the crowds.
Dinner at Canoehouse - Enjoy an epic dinner during sunset paired with the island’s fresh bounty. This restaurant is a contemporary indoor-outdoor space, with glowing tiki torches, fire pits all evening long located in the Mauna Lani Resort hotel. It is truly a luxury experience, and my favorite meal on the island. The restaurant was voted #1 restaurant in Hawaii recently! The steamed clams and Shokupan pull apart bread is the best combo ever! This was my favorite meal on the island, a perfect way to top off our last meal on the trip.
After dinner, my husband and I left a day earlier than my cousin and her boyfriend, so we packed up and headed to the airport for a red eye flight home. Overall, one of my favorite trips, and I accomplished everything I wanted to do on the trip. I highly recommend the Big Island if you’re a big adventurer!
One crazy little story, the next day while I was unpacking, I happened to find a little baby Gecko in my luggage that somehow hitched a ride to Seattle. I felt so bad, I put it in a little jar and called all around Seattle. The Wildlife Humane Society said that they could take him in, but he’d have to be euthanized and I didn’t want that. Finally, the Seattle Reptile Guy got back to me and was able to give him a home, so if you ever see the Seattle Reptile Guy, you may find the little Gecko I saved!